fishtank.cam

Care & setup.

Tests, water, dosing, fish, and how it all goes together.

Tests · UNS 75P Community · UNS 30A Bettas

Tests.

Ammonia and nitrite every 3 days while it cycles. Nitrate, pH, GH and KH once a week, on Sun before the water change. Every test weekly once the fish are in.

pH, ammonia and nitrite every 3 days while cycling, before a water change. Weekly once the betta is in.

5 mL tank water per tube White card, daylight Between two colours: the higher Log them
1

Ammonia

Goal 0Goal 2 while cycling
8+8drops
Bottle 1, then bottle 2 · shake 5 s
5min
00.25.512248
  • Under 1and nitrite under 1: Dr. Tim's back to 2
  • 5 or more30% water change today, no Dr. Tim's
  • Under 1and nitrite under 1: Dr. Tim's back to 2
  • 5 or more25–30% water change today
2

Nitrite

Goal 0
5drops
Shake 5 s
5min
0.25.5125
  • Anygood, the cycle is moving
  • 530% water change today, no Dr. Tim's
  • Climbs, dark purplenormal mid-cycle
  • Drops to 0nearly done (card 4)
3

Nitrate

Under 40
10+10drops
Bottle 1, then bottle 2
5min
First: shake bottle 2 · 30 sShake the tube · 1 min
0510204080160
  • Risingas 1 and 2 fall: nearly there
  • Over 40Sunday's change brings it down
  • Risingthe cycle is working
  • Over 40the big change at the end clears it
4

pH

3drops
Tip to mix
Nowread
6.06.46.66.87.07.27.6
  • 6.0means 6.0 or lower · log it, nothing to fix
  • ✕Neverbaking soda or buffer in this tank
  • Under 725–30% water change today
  • 7 or moregood for the cycle

Water change · UNS 75P Community · UNS 30A Bettas

Water change.

30% every Sunday.

While cycling, only when pH reads under 7. Weekly with the betta.

Sundays
30% · from the top, the soil left alone
Extra 30%
Only if KH reads 0 twice in a row, or ammonia or nitrite 5 or more

In this order

Heater onFilter onOff
  1. Test firstCO2 off
  2. Heater off
  3. 2 min
  4. Filter offBack on within the hour
  5. Drain 30%Sicce or Python · tube above the carpet
  6. Keep the moss tree wetSpray it, or a wet paper towel
  7. Prime 4 mL4 cap threads
  8. Equilibrium about 12 gStirred into 1 L of the new water first
  1. Refill with the PythonWithin 1–2 °F · aim at the glass
  2. Filter onGurgling: press the priming button
  3. 1 min
  4. Heater on
  5. 10 min
  6. Check the temperatureToward 74 °F · heater plug shows watts
  7. Stability 8 mLThen test ammonia, Dr. Tim's by the formula, log it
While cycling: canister closed, no tap water on the media Weak flow: rinse the pre-filter foams in old tank water
25–30%
While cycling · when pH reads under 7, or ammonia or nitrite 5 or more
70%
Once · cycle done
⅓ weekly
With the betta · 1.5–2 gal

In this order

Heater onPump onOff
  1. Test first
  2. Heater off
  3. 2 min
  4. Pump off
  5. Siphon outThe small siphon
  6. Prime 1 mLInto the tank
  1. Refill slowlyOnto the wood · within 1–2 °F
  2. Pump on
  3. 1 min
  4. Heater on
  5. 10 min
  6. Check the temperatureToward 78 °F
  7. Stability 1.25 mLThen log the change
Top up between changes: the pump needs water near the rim

Dosing · UNS 75P Community · UNS 30A Bettas

Dosing.

About 33 gallons of water.

About 6 gallons of water.

Stability, the first week
Fri1615mL
Sat178mL
Sun188mL
Mon198mL
Tue208mL
Wed218mL
Thu228mL
8 mL = 1 capful + 3 mL by syringe Shake, then pour slowly at the back-left inflow Then 8 mL after each water change, until cycled

The rest

(2 − R) × 66drops

Dr. Tim's ammonia, to 2 ppm

R = the reading · 66 drops = 1 ppm · again only when ammonia and nitrite are both under 1 · stop at 5

4mL

Prime

Water change · into the tank before the refill

20mL

Prime

Fish in, ammonia or nitrite over 2 · again in 24 h if still high

6pumps

Thrive S

Mon and Fri · label: 1 pump per 5 gal

~12g

Equilibrium

Sunday's new water, stirred into 1 L · toward GH 6 for the shrimp · not in top-ups · Seachem: 16 g per 80 L raises GH 3

To start the cycle

  1. 0.5 mL
    Prime
    Only if the water was not dechlorinated · 5 mL per 200 L
  2. 20 drops
    Dr. Tim's ammonia
    4 per gallon = 2 ppm · about 5 gal of water
  3. 2.5 mL
    Stability
    Near the intake slots · 5 mL per 40 L on day 1
Stability, the first week
Day12.5mL
Day21.5mL
Day31.5mL
Day41.5mL
Day51.5mL
Day61.5mL
Day71.5mL

After that

(2 − R) × 10drops

Ammonia, back to 2

Only when ammonia and nitrite both read under 1

1mL

Prime

Water change

1.25mL

Stability

After a water change · 5 mL per 80 L

1per group

Flourish Tabs

Under each crypt group, bottom of the sand · new each 3 months

1pump / wk

Thrive S, at most

Once the plants are growing

2g / 10 L

Equilibrium

Only if snails or shrimp go in · in the new water · not for the betta alone

Cycle · UNS 75P Community · UNS 30A Bettas

Is the cycle done?

2 ppm
Dr. Tim's: 132 drops
24 h
Later
0+0
Ammonia and nitrite

The test

  1. 132 drops
    After the light goes off
    Dr. Tim's ammonia, to 2 ppm
  2. 24 h
    Test ammonia and nitrite
    0 + 0: cycled · else keep going
  3. 30%
    Water change
  4. ≤ 2 days
    First small batch
    Card 6
  5. 1 week
    Test daily
    After each batch
2 → 0
Ammonia in 24 h
0
Nitrite
pH 7+
Changes keep it there

Then the betta

  1. 70%
    Water change
    Prime 1 mL
  2. ~12 drops
    Ammonia daily
    Until he comes home
  3. ≤ 2 days
    Bring him home
    Card 5
  4. Weekly
    Water changes
    Card 2

CO2 · UNS 75P Community

CO2.

Lime green in the drop checker.

Sun–Thu
12:30 – 9 pm
Fri–Sat
2:30 – 11 pm
Noon36912

Read it at full light

Blue

Too littleUp ½ bubble/s · once a day

Lime green

RightLeave it a week

Yellow

Too muchTurn it down now
It shows the water of 1–2 h ago First fish day: one step down · watch the last CO2 hour

Checks

1/ s

Bubbles a second

To start

20–25psi

Working pressure

Inline diffuser: 30–45

Weekly

Bottle gauge

Drop checker fluid: new each 2–4 weeks

Stop

Close the bottle valve

Let the bubbles run out, then unplug

Fish · UNS 75P Community

Adding fish.

Small batches, two weeks apart. Hardy first, timid later.

  1. −3 wk
    Seed the sponge
    In the canister
  2. 3–4 wk
    Quarantine
    10 gal · watched daily
  3. 15–20 min
    Float the closed bag
  4. 30–45 min
    Tank water in, each 5 min
    Shrimp: drip 1 h
  5. Net
    No store water
    Lights low the rest of the day

Quarantine tank

Water from a 75P change Prime The seeded sponge filter Heater at the 75P's temperature

Watch for

White spots Clamped or frayed fins Fast breathing Hollow belly Not eating
Medicine only for a sign: Ich-X, ParaGuard, Kanaplex · not for shrimp

Feeding

Fish

A pinch, gone in a minute · leftovers out

1× a day

One fast day a week

Bottom crew

A sinking wafer after lights out

2× a week

 

Fish · UNS 30A Bettas

The betta.

One male. Shrimp and snails are fine.

  1. 15–20 min
    Float the closed cup
  2. 30–45 min
    Tank water in, each 5 min
  3. Net
    No store water
    Lights low the rest of the day

Feeding

2–3

Pellets

Once or twice a day

1–2/ wk

Frozen

Brine shrimp or daphnia

1/ wk

Fast day

Leftovers out after a few minutes

Skip

Away a weekend

No holiday feeders

How he is doing

Well

Bright colourFins spreadEats at onceA bubble nest now and then

Trouble

Clamped finsLying on the floorWhite spotsRagged edgesNot eatingTest all four first

Each fish · UNS 75P Community · UNS 30A Bettas

Who lives here.

Who lives here.

Six kinds of fish. What each one needs.

One betta and a small clean-up crew. The crew goes in first.

Celestial pearl danio

Celestial pearl danio

Danio margaritatus

The favourite · first in
2.1 cmSize
68–79°F
6.5–7.5pH
20+Group
  • EatsSmall dried food that sinks, plus daily small live or frozen food: daphnia, brine shrimp. Rarely comes to the surface.
  • LikesHeavy planting, a dark floor, floating plants, gentle flow.
  • KnowTimid. Easily pushed off food by bigger, busier fish. Needs a steady pH.
Chili rasbora

Chili rasbora

Boraras brigittae

The red school
2 cmSize
68–82°F
4.0–7.0pH
8–10+Group
  • EatsTiny food: good flakes or granules, plus daily small live or frozen food: daphnia, brine shrimp. Not dry food alone.
  • LikesDense plants, floating cover, gentle flow, soft water (1–10 dGH).
  • KnowTimid. A big group calms them and brings out the males' colour.
Neon tetra

Neon tetra

Paracheirodon innesi

The second school
3 cmSize
70–77°F
4.0–7.5pH
8–10+Group
  • EatsFlakes or micro pellets, plus frozen bloodworm or daphnia.
  • LikesDim light, floating plants, wood.
  • KnowPeaceful. Calmer in a mixed group of males and females, with other schools around.
Kuhli loach

Kuhli loach

Pangio semicincta

Bottom dwellers
10 cmSize
70–79°F
3.5–7.0pH
5–6+Group
  • EatsSinking food after lights out, plus frozen bloodworm or brine shrimp.
  • LikesA soft floor to dig in, shade, gentle flow.
  • KnowRests piled together in one nook. Can jump, most of all when new.
Bristlenose pleco

Bristlenose pleco

Ancistrus sp. · L144

Algae grazer
12.5 cmSize
70–79°F
5.5–7.5pH
1Group
  • EatsSinking wafers, frozen bloodworm or daphnia, and vegetables: boiled potato, fruit, spirulina.
  • LikesWood and caves to hide in, well-oxygenated water.
  • KnowPeaceful with other fish. Chases its own kind.
Honey gourami

Honey gourami

Trichogaster chuna

The showcase fish
5.5 cmSize
72–81°F
6.0–7.5pH
4–6Group
  • EatsFlakes, plus frozen daphnia, brine shrimp or bloodworm. Slow: make sure food reaches him.
  • LikesFloating plants, shade, calm water.
  • KnowBreathes air at the surface. Shy around busy tankmates.
Halfmoon betta

Halfmoon betta

Betta splendens

The only fish
7 cmSize
72–86°F
6.0–8.0pH
1Group
  • EatsPellets, plus frozen daphnia, brine shrimp or bloodworm. Small meals: bettas get fat easily.
  • LikesStill water, shade, floating plants, crypts, moss on wood.
  • KnowBreathes air: lid on, a gap of air under it.
  • NeverA second betta, or fish with long trailing fins.
Amano shrimp

Amano shrimp

Caridina multidentata

Clean-up crew
5 cmSize
64–82°F
6.0–7.5pH
1+Group
  • EatsAlgae and leftovers. Now and then a shrimp food with calcium, an algae wafer or blanched vegetables.
  • LikesPlants and moss to pick through, stable water, some minerals for moulting.
  • KnowClimbs out through gaps: lid on. Does not breed in fresh water. An empty shell is a moult.
Nerite snail

Nerite snail

Neritina

Clean-up crew
1–4 cmSize
65–85°F
6.5–8.5pH
1+Group
  • EatsAlgae on glass, wood and leaves. When it runs low: algae wafers or blanched zucchini.
  • LikesHarder water with minerals. Soft water wears the shell.
  • KnowClimbs above the waterline: lid on. Lays white eggs that do not hatch in fresh water.
  • NeverMedicine with copper.

Emergencies · UNS 75P Community · UNS 30A Bettas

When something goes wrong.

In the stand, ready:

Spare HeatUp 150
part 33803
Bucket
Prime
Test kit
Towel

Gasping at the top

  1. Unplug the CO2
  2. Lift the outflow: ripple the surface
  3. Half water change today
  4. CO2 back on lower, once green

Ammonia or nitrite, fish in

  1. No food
  2. Half change today, again tomorrow if up
  3. Over 2: Prime 20 mL too
  4. No new fish until both read 0

Power out

  1. Towel over the top and sides · no food
  2. The CO2 stops by itself
  3. Past 4 h: filter unplugged, baskets into a half bucket of tank water

Power back

  1. Under 4 h: filter runs, heater on after 1 min
  2. Longer: empty the canister, baskets back, refill with tank water, plug in
  3. Test today and 3 more days · food after a day

Water under 72 °F

  1. Heater plug? Filter running?
  2. Still cold: heater and filter off, spare HeatUp in, set 74 °F
  3. Let it warm by itself · no hot water
  4. Watch for white spots 2 weeks

Filter stopped

  1. Heater off first
  2. Plug · unplug 1 min · priming button
  3. Still stopped: rinse the impeller in tank water
  4. Off over 4 h: restart as after a power cut

Water on the floor

  1. Heater off, then filter off
  2. Check the hose ends and the inline diffuser

Hissing in the stand

  1. Close the CO2 bottle valve
  2. Soapy water on the joints: growing bubbles show the leak

A sick fish

  1. Test all four and the temperature
  2. To the quarantine tank, in a cup of its own water

Ammonia or nitrite, betta in

  1. No food
  2. Half water change today
  3. Over 2: Prime 5 mL too

Heater stopped

  1. Water level: it shuts off when low · top up
  2. Check the plug
  3. Let it warm by itself · no hot water

Pump stopped

  1. Plug and power adapter
  2. Clear the intake slots

Power out

  1. Towel over the top · no food
  2. Still water is fine: he breathes air

Looks unwell

  1. Test all four and the temperature, before anything else

Setup

How it goes together.

CO2 · UNS 75P Community

CO2.

Running since October 17. Bottle, regulator, check valve, diffuser.

Bottle + regulator5 lb, upright
CO2 tubing4/6 mm
Check valveArrow to the tank
In tankOver the rim
25psi

Working, in tank

Inline 30–45

1/s

First bubble rate

Then up slowly

800+psi

Full bottle

800–1000

4–6wk

Checker fluid

Or when it fades

In the boxes

UNS Pro Dual Stage regulator

Solenoid, needle valve, bubble counter

Power plug

12 V, for the solenoid

Allen key + spare O-rings

In the regulator box

UNS Pro CO2 tubing

Two packs

UNS Pro check valve × 2

One per diffuser line

Aquario Neo CO2 Curved Original, Large

Two suction cups

UNS Pro Inline diffuser, 16 mm

Plus two spare discs

UNS Drop Checker, SD

Glass, fluid, suction cup

5 lb CO2 bottle

Filled at Jorgensen

The regulator

To check valve To CO2 plug 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
  1. 1Pressure knobCounter-clockwise to “–” is off. Clockwise raises the working pressure.
  2. 2Needle valveClockwise to “OFF”. Counter-clockwise for more bubbles.
  3. 3Bubble counterFilled with water from the top. Check valve built in.
  4. 4SolenoidGas flows only while it has power.
  5. 5Two gaugesUp to 4000: the bottle. Up to 160: working pressure.
  6. 6Bottle nutCGA-320. Tighten with a wrench, 15–20 ft-lb.
  7. 7Bottle valveOpen all the way, or closed.

First start

Put it together

  1. Look it over. Threads clean, no dust, oil or grease.Wipe with a dry cloth. Damaged: stop.
  2. Both knobs down. Pressure knob counter-clockwise to “–”. Needle valve clockwise to “OFF”.
  3. Fill the bubble counter with water from the top. Screw it tight.
  4. Regulator onto the bottle. Tighten the nut with a wrench, 15–20 ft-lb. No oil or grease.
  5. Tubing from the bubble counter to the check valve, arrow toward the tank, then on to the diffuser.Cut the tubing and push it onto each end. Valve upright.
  6. Power: solenoid cable to the 12 V plug, plug into the CO2 smart plug.

Turn it on

  1. CO2 plug on in Home Assistant.
  2. Stand beside the bottle, not in front of the gauges. Open the bottle valve slowly, all the way.Bottle gauge: 800–1000 psi
  3. Pressure knob clockwise to the working pressure.In tank 25 psi · inline 30–45 psi
  4. Needle valve counter-clockwise, slowly, until bubbles show.Start at 1 bubble a second
  5. Leak test (below) before you walk away.
  6. Wait an hour, then read the drop checker.

Leak test

  1. Close the bottle valve. Pressure knob down.
  2. Watch the bottle gauge. It holds: sealed. It drops: a leak.
  3. Brush soapy water on the bottle nut and joints. Bubbles show the leak. Tighten it.
  4. Still leaking? Close the bottle, take the regulator off, call Buce.

The first week

  1. 1 bubble a second to start.
  2. Read the checker at full light, not when the CO2 comes on. It lags 1–2 hours.
  3. Blue? Up half a bubble a second. One step a day.
  4. Green at full light: stop. Leave it a week.
  5. Day the fish go in: one step down. Watch them in the last CO2 hour.

Drop checker

BlueToo little. Up a step.
GreenRight. Leave it.
YellowToo much. Down now.

Fill and place

  1. Fill the glass with the indicator fluid.
  2. In the tank on its suction cup.
  3. Read it after an hour or more.
  4. New fluid each 4–6 weeks, or when it fades: pour out, refill.

On and off

  • Solenoid on a Zigbee plug. Home Assistant switches it.
  • On 1 h before full light, off 1 h before lights out.
  • Sun–Thu: on 1:30 pm, off 9:00 pm.
  • Fri–Sat: on 3:30 pm, off 11:00 pm.
  • Off during Movie mode.
  • Checked each 5 minutes. Stays off after a power cut.
  • Never overnight.
  • Water change before CO2 on, or after it’s off.

Diffusers

In tank

  1. New: soak it in clean water 30 min before connecting.
  2. Hook over the rim. Two suction cups hold it.
  3. Check valve outside the tank, just before the tube goes over the glass.
  4. Body fills with water: it counts bubbles too.

Inline

  1. Cut into the filter’s outflow hose in the stand. 16/22 mm.
  2. Check valve a few inches from its CO2 port. It stays there for good.
  3. Working pressure 30–45 psi. Less and it won’t push.
  4. Disc in the side chamber. An Allen key opens it.

Switch diffusers

  1. CO2 off. Plug off in Home Assistant.
  2. Pull the tubing off on the regulator side of the check valve.
  3. The check valve stays with its diffuser. One valve per line.
  4. Push the tubing onto the other line. Set the pressure for it.

Clean

  1. Neo, bubbles getting big: 10 min in household bleach.
  2. Rinse well in fresh water, then water conditioner. Back in.
  3. Inline, bubbles getting big: Allen key, open the side chamber, swap in a spare disc.

How often

Daily

Bubbles and checker

Steady bubbles. Green at full light.

Weekly

Bottle gauge

Steady: fine. Falling: refill soon.

When low

Bubble counter water

Top it up from the top.

4–6 weeks

Drop checker fluid

Or sooner when it fades.

Big bubbles

Clean the diffuser

Neo: bleach. Inline: new disc.

Gauge falls

Refill the bottle

Jorgensen, 5 lb.

5 years

Bottle retest

Date stamped on the shoulder.

After a move

Leak test

Also after a bottle swap.

The bottle

Swap or refill

  1. Close the bottle valve. Let the bubbles run out.
  2. Pressure knob down to “–”.
  3. Take the regulator off with the wrench.
  4. Refill at Jorgensen (5 lb). Never fill it yourself.
  5. Put it back: “Put it together” and “Turn it on”, then the leak test.

Always

  • Upright, wedged so it can’t tip.
  • Away from heaters and heat.
  • Empty weight is stamped on the bottle. Weigh it to see what’s left.
  • CO2 only in this regulator.
  • Never oil or grease. Never take the regulator apart.

If something’s off

No bubbles

  • CO2 plug on in Home Assistant?
  • Bottle valve open all the way?
  • Working gauge at 25? If not, pressure knob clockwise.
  • Needle valve open a little?
  • Bottle gauge near zero: refill.

Bubbles stop at night

  • Right. Home Assistant cut the plug.
  • Bubbles at night: the plug is on. Turn it off and check the schedule.

Checker stays blue

  • Read it at full light, an hour or more after CO2 on.
  • Fluid older than 6 weeks: new fluid.
  • Big bubbles at the diffuser: clean it.
  • Then up half a bubble a second, one step a day.

Yellow, or fish at the top

  • Too much CO2. Needle valve down now.
  • Fish gasping: CO2 plug off.
  • Keep a light ripple on the surface.

Rate creeps after start

  • The solenoid warms and the needle valve drifts.
  • Set the rate after it’s run an hour.

Solenoid warm

  • Warm while on is normal.
  • Too hot to hold, or a loud buzz: Buce support for a new solenoid.

Regulator leaks

  • Bottle gauge drops with the bottle closed, or a hiss.
  • Close the bottle valve.
  • Soapy water to find it. Wrench the nut tighter.
  • Still leaks: regulator off, call Buce. Don’t open it up.

Bottle gauge falling

  • It sits near 800 while there’s liquid inside.
  • Falling: the end is close. Refill now.

Big bubbles

  • New Neo: soak it 30 min first.
  • Older Neo: 10 min bleach, rinse, conditioner.
  • Inline: pressure 30–45. Still big: new disc.

Water in the tubing

  • Check valve arrow points to the tank?
  • Valve upright, tubing pushed fully on.

Filter · UNS 75P Community

The canister.

OASE BioMaster 2 Thermo 250, in the stand.

900L/h

Flow

4.4L

Media

16/22mm

Hoses

74°F

Heater

How the water goes

From the tank To the tank 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
  1. 1HeadPump, suction button, the lever and the IN and OUT ports.
  2. 2Pre-filterCarbon foams in a tube. Water goes here first.
  3. 3Bottom: Hel-XIn its bag. Water then rises up through the baskets.
  4. 4Middle: blue foam × 220 ppi.
  5. 5Top: orange foam30 ppi, under the filter cover.
  6. 6HeatUp 150In its holding ring, through the head.
  7. 7HandleUp to free the heater and the head.

In the box

Container + head

Pump in the head

Pre-filter

Tube of carbon foams

HeatUp 150

With its holding ring

Connection unit

The lever, IN and OUT

Foams 30 + 20 ppi

Orange and blue

Hel-X

Always in its bag

Rubber feet

Twist into the base

First start

Set up

  1. Twist the rubber feet into the base.
  2. Rinse new media in warm tap water.
  3. Heater in: wet the glass, push it into the holding ring, screw the ring in clockwise. Cable in its guide, handle down.
  4. Filter under the tank. Lily pipes in, hoses to IN and OUT.
  5. Lever to LOCK.

Start

  1. Pump off. Press and release the suction button until water runs into the filter.Full when water comes out of the outflow
  2. Plug in, cords in a drip loop. The pump starts at once.
  3. A little noise from trapped air. It clears shortly.
  4. Heater set to 74 °F. Wait about 30 min, then switch it on.Only once the filter is full and water is moving
  5. Next day: check the temperature on the probe.

What normal looks like

Steady outflow at the lily pipe Quiet once the air is out Filter plug about 11 W Heater light on while it heats, off at 74 °F Heater plug shows watts only while heating

Water change order

Off

  1. Heater off first (tank heater plug).
  2. Wait 2 minutes, pump running, so the rod cools in moving water.
  3. Filter off. Back on within the hour.

On

  1. Filter on once the water covers the outflow pipe.
  2. Gurgles or weak? Press the suction button a few times.
  3. Watch the outflow 1 minute, then heater on.
  4. 10 minutes later in Home Assistant: heater watts, temperature steady or rising.

How often

2–4 weeks

Pre-filter foams

Rinse in old tank water.

Monthly

Lily pipes

Brush inside. See Lily pipes.

3 months

Baskets

Rinse in old tank water. Foams at different times.

Flow drops

Impeller

Out, rinse, back in.

Opened

Head seal

Clean. Damaged: new one.

When needed

Heater glass

Clear water, soft sponge.

Take apart and clean

Open it

  1. Tank Dial button 4: cleaning mode. Filter and heater off.
  2. Let the heater cool before it leaves the water.
  3. Lever to UNLOCK. IN and OUT close.
  4. Pull out the pre-filter.
  5. Heater out: handle up, unscrew the ring with the heater counter-clockwise.
  6. Head off: undo the fasteners, lift the head.

Clean

  1. Pre-filter: turn the casing until the hooks let go, pull it off. Rinse the foams.
  2. Baskets out. Rinse the media and the container.Never all the foams at once
  3. Impeller: pull off the venting element, pump lid counter-clockwise, impeller out, rinse.
  4. Impeller back, both rubber bearings seated, lid clockwise.
  5. Water and a soft brush only. No cleaners.

Close it

  1. Baskets in the bottom recess. Filter cover on the top foam.
  2. Head seal clean and in place.
  3. Head on, pre-filter opening over the basket recess. Fasteners shut, handle down.
  4. Pre-filter in firmly, lever to the padlock: LOCK.
  5. Heater back in, ring clockwise.
  6. Prime, filter on, heater on last (button 4 again).

Heater runs off

  1. Check after a day against the probe.
  2. Low? Check the flow first.
  3. Still off: hold the blue dial, turn the small black knob with the tool or a screwdriver.
  4. Too warm: toward minus. Too cool: toward plus.3 clicks each way, about 2 °F each

Parts that wear

Impeller unit

Flow still low after a clean

Replace

Foams

Worn or falling apart

Replace

Head seal

Damaged

Replace

HeatUp 150

No heat with power on. Exact part only.

Replace

If something’s off

Won’t prime

  • Lever at LOCK?
  • Filter sits below the water line?
  • Rock it gently side to side to free the air.
  • Still not: clean the pre-filter foams, then its valve box.

Noisy

  • Just started: air. It clears shortly.
  • Still noisy: rock it side to side.

Flow dropped

  • Lever all the way to LOCK?
  • Rinse the pre-filter foams.
  • Clean the lily pipes and hoses.
  • Clean the impeller. Worn: replace it.
  • Then the basket media.

Leaks

  • Button 4 first.
  • At the head: seal clean and seated, fasteners shut. Damaged: new seal.
  • At a hose: refit it on its port.

Won’t start

  • Filter plug on? Cleaning mode left on?
  • Impeller blocked: clean it.

Water too cool

  • Heater plug on and showing watts?
  • Dial on 74 °F? Flow weak?
  • Then calibrate. No heat at all: new HeatUp 150.

Home Assistant notes

  • Filter under 3 W: it stopped. Prime it.
  • Heater over 100 W for hours, warm water: heater plug off, calibrate.
  • Cool water, heater plug on, no watts: heater not working.
  • Plug unavailable: check its power and Zigbee.
Never run it dry Heater never on in still water Water and a soft brush only

Lily pipes · UNS 75P Community

Lily pipes.

Aquario Neo Flow Premium, Large 17 mm.

InflowLong, slotted, low at the back left
OutflowShort, just under the surface
SkimmerOn the outflow
RelieverSofter flow

On the glass

Water line To the filter 1 2 3 4 5
  1. 1InflowSlotted end low in the tank. Water goes to the filter.
  2. 2OutflowJust under the surface. The nozzle turns all the way round.
  3. 3SkimmerOn the outflow, its top at the surface.
  4. 4Neo HoldersTwo, on the rim. Glass up to 12 mm.
  5. 5Hoses 16/22 mmInflow to filter IN, outflow to OUT.

In the box

Inflow pipe

PETG, with intake grate

Outflow pipe

PETG, with nozzle

Neo Holder × 2

Hold the pipes on the rim

Neo Skimmer

Plus the Invincible body and two nets

Neo Reliever

Softens the outflow

Pipe cutter

His, for trimming

Fit

Pipes

  1. Two holders on the glass, pipes in them.
  2. Hoses 16/22 mm: inflow to filter IN, outflow to OUT.
  3. Too long? Measure, cut the straight part with the pipe cutter or a fine saw.
  4. Sand the edge smooth. Put the intake grate back on.
  5. Turn the nozzle to aim the flow.

Skimmer

  1. On the outflow. Push the upright part in deep.
  2. Turn it left or right, up or down, to set how much surface film it takes.
  3. Set high for more surface movement.
  4. The cut face never points against the water exit.
  5. Water level 1–2 in from the skimmer’s top.
  6. Nets on the intake to keep shrimp and small fish out.

Reliever

  • Wings and depth set the flow. One wing, one direction.
  • Rotate it to aim the flow.

What normal looks like

  • A light ripple across the surface.
  • No film on the water.
  • Quiet: no slurping.
  • Clear pipes.

How often

Monthly

Brush the pipes

Spring pipe brush, inside.

When low

Top up the water

Keeps the skimmer working.

Cloudy parts

Citric acid soak

Grate, nozzle, skimmer.

Flow drops

Intake grate

Pull it off, rinse.

Clean

  1. Filter off: Tank Dial button 4.
  2. Lift the pipes out of their holders.
  3. Pull off the intake grate and the outflow nozzle.
  4. Brush the inside with a flexible spring pipe brush.
  5. Small parts: soak in a mild citric acid bath. Rinse well.
  6. Back together, back in the holders. Button 4 again.

Careful

  • PETG: tough, but no force.
  • A brush or citric acid won’t scratch it.
  • It may cloud a little with age.

If something’s off

Film on the surface

  • Water level 1–2 in from the skimmer’s top?
  • Turn the skimmer to take more film.
  • Nets slow it: take one off for stronger skimming.

Gurgling, slurping

  • Water too low: the skimmer pulls air. Top up.
  • Water always low here? Shorten the long side of the pipe.

Flow too strong

  • Reliever on. Turn its wings and depth.
  • Turn the nozzle toward the glass.
  • Keep a light ripple: it’s the fish’s air with CO2.

Algae inside

  • Brush with the spring brush.
  • Small parts: citric acid soak.

Flow weak

  • Intake grate clogged: rinse it.
  • Then the filter card: pre-filter, impeller.

Pipe slipping

  • Seat it in its Neo Holder on the rim.

Light · UNS 75P Community

The light.

Chihiros WRGB II Pro 60.

74 W, 60 LEDs, for 60–80 cm

In the box

Light body

With its controller

Power adapter + plug

36 V out

Light stand

The legs, slide to width

Screws + hex key

For the stand

Fit

  1. Hung from the stand. The Chihiros light stand clamps on the back glass; the hanging kit’s cables hold the light level.
  2. At least 60 mm above the water.
  3. Adapter out of the splash, never on a lid.
  4. Cord in a drip loop. Plug in.
  5. Home Assistant picks it up by Bluetooth through the Atom.

Who runs it

  • Home Assistant: the day, dim to full to off, the shows.
  • The Tank Dial for moods.
  • Never Auto mode. No timer stored in the light.
  • Not from the phone app.

A normal day

Sun–Thu

Dim from 11 am

Full 2–10 pm.

Fri–Sat

Dim from noon

Full 4 pm–midnight.

Each end

30 min sunrise, sunset

Inside the full window.

After

Moonlight

20 min of soft blue.

Care

  • Unplug before cleaning.
  • Hot while on. Let it cool first.
  • Keep water drops off the panel.
  • Never cover the light or the adapter.
  • Never look straight into it.

Into the water

  1. Unplug it at once.
  2. Dry it out fully before it goes back on.
  3. Damaged cord or adapter: original Chihiros parts only.

If something’s off

Home Assistant lost it

  • Wait a few minutes. It retries each minute and resends the plan each 5.
  • Atom by the tank, on its USB charger?
  • Light’s adapter plugged in?

Colours look wrong

  • A mood, Storm or dial look still on?
  • “Back to schedule” on the Chihiros page.

Auto mode came on

  • Home Assistant notes who did it and puts it back on its schedule.

Legs don’t sit right

  • Slide them to the tank’s width.
  • Screws snug with the hex key.

Water change · UNS 75P Community

Water change kit.

Pump out to a bucket, fill from the faucet.

Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5Out
Python No SpillIn
HookHolds the end on the rim

Pump out

  1. Suction cups into the holes under the pump.
  2. Hose on the threaded outlet, other end in the bucket.
  3. Pump in the water, then plug in. Cord in a drip loop.
  4. Front dial – to +: less or more flow.
  5. Unplug before it comes out of the water.

Fill

  1. Faucet aerator off. Brass adapter on.Outside threads: take the big white washer out
  2. Faucet pump fully onto the adapter.
  3. Hook on the rim, hose end in it.
  4. Pump set to fill. Then turn the water on.
  5. Match the tank within 1–2 °F.

Pump cleaning

  1. Unplug. Pre-filter off, ring nut off, front chamber off.
  2. Rotor out, rinse in fresh water. Soft brush.
  3. Check the O-rings. Any damage: replace.
  4. Back together in reverse.

Order of a change

  1. Heater off, wait 2 min, filter off.See the filter card
  2. Pump out with the Sicce or the Python.
  3. Prime into the tank, dosed for the whole tank.
  4. Fill within 1–2 °F of the tank.
  5. Filter on, then heater.

If something’s off

Python won’t drain

  • Cold water on full. Pump on “drain”.
  • Fittings tight. Pump top fully on the adapter.
  • Top wobbles? Hold the pump, turn the hose counter-clockwise until tight.

Adapter won’t fit the faucet

  • Outside threads: take the big white washer out.
  • Still no: a Python MABA, or FEBA for small newer threads.

Sicce flow weak

  • Dial toward +.
  • Clean the pre-filter and rotor (above).

Taking the Sicce out

  • Unplug first, then lift it out.
  • O-rings damaged: replace before use.
The pump never runs dry Pump: water under 95 °F

Probe · UNS 75P Community

Temperature probe.

A SONOFF Zigbee probe, straight to Home Assistant.

75P probe

Tip at the filter hose, in the stand

Temperature

Where

  • Probe at the filter or its hose, in the stand.
  • Never in the display tank, never over the rim.
  • Runs on a battery. Nothing to plug in.

What it does

  • A note if the water leaves 72–80 °F for 20 min.
  • A note if the probe goes quiet for 2 h.

Plugs · UNS 75P Community

Smart plugs.

What each one runs.

Filter

Watched for power. Off only in cleaning mode.

Dial 4

Heater

Watched for power. Off with the filter.

Dial 4

CO2 solenoid

Sun–Thu 1:30–9 pm, Fri–Sat 3:30–11 pm, with the light. Never overnight.

Schedule

Atomizer

Mist over the water, from the dial.

Dial

Atom

Plain USB charger.

No smart plug

Light

Bluetooth from Home Assistant.

Bluetooth

UNS 30A Plakat · UNS 30A Halfmoon

The 30As.

UNS 30A Dual AIO, the same tank twice. Filter built into the back.

30cm

Cube

7.1gal

Water

1.9 in the back

3

Back chambers

10W

Sigma 10 pump

12 V

The back

To the nozzle 1 2 3 4
  1. 1Chamber 1: spongeBlack coarse sponge. Catches the dirt first.
  2. 2Chamber 2: Bio BlocksTwo blocks on the Bio Riser.
  3. 3Chamber 3: Sigma 10Pump with its hose up to the nozzle.
  4. 4Water level baffleLower it to skim the surface clean.

In the box

30A tank

30 cm cube, 5 mm glass

Filter sponge

Chamber 1

Bio Blocks + Bio Riser

Chamber 2

Sigma pump

Flow dial, 3/8 and 1/2 in fittings

Standard nozzle

Turns to aim the flow

Pump power supply

Low voltage

Intake guard

On the slots

Set up

  1. Leveling mat under the tank.
  2. Sponge in chamber 1, riser and Bio Blocks in 2, pump in 3.
  3. Pump hose on the barb, up to the nozzle.
  4. Fill the tank with the pump unplugged.
  5. Plug in once chamber 3 is full. Cord in a drip loop.
  6. Flow dial to suit. Turn the nozzle to aim it.
  7. Intake guard on the slots.
  8. Back lid on the chambers.

What normal looks like

  • Water spills over into chamber 1 at the slots.
  • Pump always under water.
  • Steady flow from the nozzle.
  • Clear surface, no film.

How often

Regularly

Rinse the sponge

In old tank water. Stops clogs and spills.

When dirty

Bio Blocks

A light rinse only.

2–3 months

Clean the pump

Impeller, shaft, motor.

When low

Top up

Keep the pump under water.

Clean the pump

  1. Unplug it.
  2. Lift it out, pull off the outflow hose.
  3. Pull off the front faceplate. The impeller comes out.
  4. Rinse the impeller, its shaft and the motor in clean water.
  5. Back together, hose on, into chamber 3.
  6. Water over it, then plug in.

Clean the sponge

  1. Unplug the pump.
  2. Lift the sponge out of chamber 1.
  3. Squeeze it in a cup of old tank water.
  4. Back in. Plug the pump in.

If something’s off

Flow weak

  • Flow dial turned down?
  • Sponge clogged: rinse it.
  • Impeller dirty: clean the pump.

Water over the top

  • Unplug the pump.
  • A clogged sponge backs water up. Rinse it.

Pump sucking air

  • Chamber 3 low: top up the tank.
  • Never let it run dry.

Film on the surface

  • Lower the water level baffle in chamber 1.

Flow too strong for a betta

  • Turn the pump dial down.
  • Aim the nozzle at the glass.

Pump dead

  • Power supply plugged in?
  • Clean the impeller.
  • Still dead: a new Sigma 10, 3/8 or 1/2 in barb.

Fish photos, Wikimedia Commons, cut out and resized: Cisamarc (CC BY-SA 3.0), JoKrimmel (CC BY-SA 4.0), André Karwath (CC BY-SA 2.5), Iidkk (CC BY-SA 4.0), Nicklas Iversen (CC BY-SA 4.0), Marcus Cyron (CC BY-SA 3.0), ivabalk (CC0), Seotaro (CC BY-SA 3.0), TheJammingYam (CC BY-SA 3.0), Carnat Joel (CC BY 2.0: the opae ula and the Chaetomorpha).